Day 3: Ballyheigue to Quilty. 51.4 Miles, Elevation 2176 ft.

Enjoyed breakfast looking out on the Atlantic with waves crashing in on the shoreline. Dull, drizzle in the air, warm and a wind hopefully from the south or west, hitting me side on as I make my way north.  In the morning my body tells me I have to eat but I really don't want much, forcing down poached eggs (protein), toast and tea. Once eaten though I feel so much better. Hopefully there will be fruit tomorrow.  A short way into the cycle the drizzle turned heavier and stayed with me to the Mouth of the Shannon where I was catching the Tarbert/Killimer Ferry. Countryside was undulating farmland with huge herds of cattle. I disturbed plenty dogs as I passed but fortunately all were behind gates or fences.  Beautiful, grand houses are everywhere, look so out of place. Mr Garmin was in his element whisking me along narrow, twisting back roads where very few people have been before and I made good time. Fortunately the Shannon ferry was running late and I literally arrived and walked on, 5 Euros to cross, 20 minutes. Huge queue of cars but I think everyone managed on, made me feel quite at home. 12.30pm and I was on the other side, now in County Clare with just 20 miles to go. Miraculously, in crossing the Shannon the rain had stopped and the sun was out.  Didn't feel like stopping for lunch so ate a couple of biscuits and kept going.  Then, of course, the dreaded detour, I was given the option by the lovely Declan of carrying my bike over 400 metres of chips or detouring a couple of miles. Detoured !!  Declan told me he had lived in London for 15 years but belonged to Ireland, the pull had proved too strong and he had returned. I asked him how far to Quilty and he said 20 miles, "What",  ok then maybe 10.  With 5 miles to go Murray met me and guided me to the B&B.  Again, overlooking the Atantic Ocean, the sun setting as I write. An easier day, no big hills.  All good, loving it !

Doonbeg

A Patriot

One of the Numerous Grand Houses

Shannon Ferry

Fuzzy Feels at Home

The Lovely Declan...."I should have put my cap on"

Our B&B Tonight

Murray Visiting Mr Trump

Murrays Dinner 

My Dinner...Irish Stew...Delicious

The Quilty Tavern

Day 2: Kenmare to Ballyheigue 52.5 miles, Elevation 3299 ft

On the road just after 9.00am, better.  Not so good was a warm, fine drizzle, still it wasn’t torrential, be positive. Heading from Cork into Kerry today and wondering whether to stick to my planned route of back roads, again advised by the Irish Cycling sadist or find an alternative. Firstly, I headed for Molls Gap on a surprising quiet main road, near the Gap I spotted a man pushing a pram packed with his worldly goods. I stopped to chat and received a warm welcome from Paul Llewelyn Franklin ( see. Facebook ) who is cycling/walking from Mizen Head to Malin Head and back again for Spinal Fusion. We had a great chat, he much admired the lightness of my bike, and I gave him all the change in my purse for his cause. Puts my little outing in perspective !!  Although he didn’t go over Priests Leap !! At Molls Gap I had to decide back roads or main road “ Oh what the hell, back roads “. I am so glad I did as this led me through the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks Range and the Gap of Dunloe, absolutely stunning.  Met a  German cyclist heading for Killarney, he asked ME for directions lol. The rain had gone off, the mist clung to the mountains, so atmospheric, silent... then as I crested my last ridge a horse and trap appeared round the corner. Perfect, struggling to get camera out. Then another three traps appeared....carrying tourists over the Gap. The drivers all greeting me and asking how I was. Just great, to be sure. The hills were hard but all doable today, no walking, so pleased I made the decision to come this way. Now on to more farming land, mostly cows and sheep, making good progress. Legs have felt fine but yesterday had sore shoulders and lower back, cramping fingers after braking hard, all par for the course. I had planned to stop about 30 miles for lunch but as I was in the middle of nowhere carried on to Tralee, 40 miles in, nearly finished. Walked into a Spar with Fuzzy, bought a sandwich, and found a table. Couldn’t be bothered locking him up outside and no one said a word, why should they ? Had been in touch with Murray so with a few miles to go he cycled out to meet me and guided me to B&B on the coast at Ballyheigue. Again our B&B has a wonderful view. Enjoyed today, everyone so friendly, farmers, gardeners, walkers.... all greeting me or giving a wave. Still loving it, all good.

Paul admiring my bike.

Paul's Adventures

Gap of Dunloe

Molls Gap

Traps on Gap of Dunloe

Fuzzy in the Spar

View from B&B...Ballyheigue

Day 1: Mizen Head to Kenmare. 51.6 miles, 3829 ft

A late start because the B&B didn't serve breakfast until 9.00am. However we were organised and out at Mizen Head for the back of 10.00am.  A cloudy but dry morning with a south westerly breeze, perfect. Stunning, rugged scenery, just like Scotlands West coast. No-one about but this colourfully dressed friendly gentleman. Didn't like to ask for his photo so took it when his back was turned !

At Mizen Head there is a shop and cafe but all closed when we arrived, a few photos and I was on the road, eager to get started. Maybe it was the adrenaline but within a couple of miles I took a wrong turn, Mr Garmin kept telling me I was off course but I knew better, not. Eventually I came to a dead end and had to turn back. Within another couple of miles I took another wrong turn but looking at the map I could see a way to join up with the correct route so kept going. Ireland is a warren of lanes and side roads so lesson is, trust Mr Garmin and keep my eyes peeled. However, this second mistake proved a blessing as this route turned out to be the most picturesque of the whole day.  Sweeping inlets and rocky cliffs, quiet back roads with very little traffic.  Soon I reached the N71, just like our A roads but although the traffic was fast, wasn't too busy and gave me a wide berth. After 30 miles I reached Bantry and decided I better stop for lunch, found a nice pub and sat outside, Fuzzy Felt (my Bike) beside me.  So far the route had been undulating but I knew the best had been saved for last, the Priest's Leap.  An Irish Cyclist had advised me to do it, said the views were spectacular... the man must be a sadist. I have cycled over the Bealach na Ba, the highest mountain pass in Britain, also cycled Mount Tiede, the highest mountain in Europe but this was worse.  The ramps were so steep I knew just by looking there was no way I could cycle up, I walked, something I never do. At times I felt physically sick. Eventually, thankfully I reached the top but the Priest wasn't finished with me yet.....the descent was hair raising. In places almost vertical, I was frightened to cycle down but knew there was no way I could walk down, too steep. So with my left foot unclipped I went for it and of course lived to tell the tale arriving safely in Kenmare.  Murray had had a good day. After waving me off, he drove 61 miles to Kenmare then cycled 35 miles round Beara Way.  Kenmare is a bustling town with dozens of pubs. After a lovely fish pie in one, followed by a 99 Mr Whippy Ice cream I am recovered, resting now in another lovely B&B. The Irish are so friendly and welcoming, they sometimes struggle with my accent and me with them but we get by.  First day, all good.

Near Mizen Head

Near Mizen Head

Mizen Head

Dunmanus Bay

On the Road to Priest's Leap

Bantry Bay

Fortuen Teller...Better not to know !!

A flat bit on Priest'd Leap

Looking back - Priest's Leap

The Top...Priest's Leap

Yippee...Kenmare.

Arrived Goleen, Village near Mizen Head, Most SouthWesterly Point

I know now why they call Ireland the Emerald Isle ! What a beautiful journey south though the Counties of Ireland...  Kildare, Tipperary and Cork, good roads well signposted. Love some of the village names, Horse and Jockey, Two Mile Borris, Barack Obama Plaza  and so many Bally's....Ballyhooley, Ballylooby, Ballylickey, i could go on and on. Apparently it means "place of".  We are now in Goleen, one of the most southern villages and close to Mizen Head where I will start cycling tomorrow. It is beautiful and Heron's Cove our B&B is very picturesque,  sitting on the balcony, enjoying the view in the sunshine. I am resting ready for the start tomorrow but Murray is away, on the bike, for a recce to Mizen Head. Stunning day, hope it lasts.

Heron"s Cove, B&B

Goleen Harbour

Heron's Cove Our B&B

Murray 

Amazing Story

Across the Sea to Ireland

I must tell you about the great meal we had in Stranraer last night in the Starfish Restaurant. I had the Sunday special of Roast Beef, Yorkshire Pudding, roast/mashed potatoes, peas followed by Apple Pie and Custard..all for £7. Murray had Steak Pie, chips, peas/beans, £9.  All delicious, so amazing, such a bargain. We are now on the P&O European Seaway ferry to Larne, Northern Ireland. It is normally a freight boat  between Dover/Calais but is extremely large and comfortable, fantastic viewing lounge and all amenities, free coffee, tea, soft drinks. They keep apologising for lack of normal ferry but this is fantastic. We are just leaving Loch Ryan and so far very calm !
Now in the Gandon Inn, County Kildare after an uneventful 200 miles drive south from Larne skirting Belfast and Dublin. Roads very good and well signposted.
I had warned Murray that as this was a budget cycling holiday our room at the Gandon Inn was just a room above a pub, could be noisy ?  We are in Room 101 and the room is fabulous, our bathroom is bigger than our bedroom last night. We have just enjoyed a huge meal in their bar lounge and Murray is loving the Guinness. The staff are very friendly, great fun. Loving the atmosphere , so good to be in Ireland. ( PS. Note the steps up to the bed !!! )

On the Road Again

10 years since I cycled Land’s End to John O’Groats, so I thought it was about time I gave Ireland a visit and cycle Ireland, End to End. Originally I planned to nip over the Irish Sea  and cycle a Loop round Northern Ireland but then I thought why not E2E and so the planning began. Logistics first.....which I love, how to get there and back. Land’s End was easier...so hubby Murray said “Why don’t I join you and come with the car.”  The tempting offer to have my bags carried was irresistible, problem solved. As I write this, Sunday, we are in Stranraer, catching the Cairn Ryan to Larne ferry tomorrow morning. We will be in Goleen, a small rural village in County Cork on the south western tip of Ireland by Tuesday afternoon. Goleen is about 6 miles north of Mizen Head from where I start cycling on Wednesday.  I plan to cycle via Bantry over the Priests Leap Pass to Kenmare.  Murray will go ahead with the car and find our B&B in Kenmare then probably cycle a Loop in the area, there appears to be some challenging routes. I will roll in whenever !! Hoping for fine weather and most importantly a tail wind, the west coast of Ireland could be a bit unforgiving, anyway can’t wait to get started and enjoy Ireland. See you on the road.
Notes on today: Traveling south from Ardrossan to Stranraer today was both stunning and depressing. The hillsides were yellowed with gorse and bathed in blue from the Bluebells, such a beautiful country, the sea to our right looking over to Arran and Alisa Craig. However some of the small towns we passed through were grey and bleak, long narrow High Streets with boarded up shops, litter, young people lounging aimlessly about, fags and mobile phones in hand. Maybe because it was a Sunday, I don’t know, but they had a feeling of forlornness and emptiness. Sad to see. Also a least 300 bikers ( motorbikes ) passed us heading north, wonder where they had been or where they were going, intrigued.

Our B&B Stranraer